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Took my straight 6 Cyl 1995 Ford F150 to get Tranny fluid and fliters changed.  Got a clean bill of health, said it had just a bit of metal in the pan  but basically it looked good.     After driving an hour it dump the tranny fluid.  Went back they said this happens at times they added fliuds and resealed with silicone.  Another clean bill of health.  After driving an hour it dumped fluids again.  Now the say the front seal is bad and they need to take the entire tranny out to fix it for $375 dollars.  All this after a maintence change?

i don’t have constant power at my 5th wheel plug. does it have a fuse? if so where&what is it label
and i have a blue wire next to my 5th wheel plug what is it for

California: 1991 Honda Accord SE, A/T

New O2 sensor, ran Seafoam, cleaned egr and ports, Egr function properly, Aftermarket CAT 2yrs old, CAT passed backpressure test and no rattling or smell, cleaned IAVC screen.

NOx levels dropped to low 900′s on pretest after cleaning egr ports. Still a hundred to high

Any ideas? Additives? Tricks to pass?

hi i have a 2007 civic that i did a remote start in. i hooked up parking lights to a red positve wire at the steering column. turns out its an illumination wire and i think i burned a circuit because now the lights on the heater, shifter, and steering wheel controls dont light. where can i trace that circuit to?

My 91 accord was running well but didn’t pass smog (high nox). So as many forums suggested I cleaned out the EGR runner ports and passages. I cleaned the ports with a drill bit by hand and the passages with a thin wire. 5 ports plugged solid and one had a small clearance and surprisingly the only problem was a slightly high idle and of course a failed smog. I vacuumed out the debris with a hose that fit right in the hole. I know it is clean because I could hear the vacuum coming from the other ports.

The problem is now my car starts with a low idle when cold. What I mean is the car starts with 750 rpm, which is what is should be at once warm. The idle will bounce and usually die after a minute. Or if I try shifting gears it will stall too. After restarting a couple time the rpm’s will start to rise and I can go on my way. Then the car runs great again. I had to remove the IACV to clean the ports but left all hoses connected and just moved it aside. I wiped the screen inside clean as it was slightly dirty. What could cause this? Did I possibly damage something?

P.S. Would the clean ports lower my NOx enough(400ppm)to pass smog?

**15mph – Max 799 – Actual 1206**
**25mph – Max 738 – Actual 1211**

Please help me figure this out ASAP!!

I have a 2002 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor with 135,500 miles on the original motor and tranny.  There is a loud constant tap coming from around the passenger side valve cover, is this a rod getting ready to go, or is it a sticky valve or valve lifter?

i have a 97 honda civic with a b-16 a engine i got gas at a local 76 station got the car home a mile or 2 away and it died i tried to start it and it sounded like it was out of gas but it wasnt it also was spitting out alot of smoke whitish blue smoke,so i checked my plugs they have gas on them and checked them to see if they have spark they do i checked the rail/filter still good?so i turned to the gas i drained some out it is bright yellow?i went to the station it is also yellow so i dont know if conaco phillips uses yellow gas im not used to that.but my neighbor who also got gas from the station his car also died the same way.so i think its the gas if there is any input you could give me it would be much appreciated.im thinkin plugs wires filter new gas etc..cause it looks like the plugs were fouled out.so is there any input on the yellow gas lol thanks

1991 Accord, A/T

I failed my smog and only have a few days to fix it before my temp tags expires! I am in CA so the smog is tough here.

My NoX emissions were high:
15mph – Max 799 – Actual 1206
25mph – Max 738 – Actual 1211

I was also told my timing was off – High RPM. However I checked my timing which looks right on target as well as the RPM at idle sitting right at 800.

So now I need help to pass Smog ASAP. The Cat is working fine and it has a new O2 sensor. The EGR was replaced with a used one which fixed the CEL code 12 it had before.

The car was warmed up with a 20mile drive, I have cleaned the engine with seafoam, new radiator and fresh coolant.

Any idea how to lower that last few hundred PPM?

I have a 2000 Ford Crown Vic that has periodic idling problems. It happens about every 2 weeks. Right when I turn the key I know whether its going to be a problem or not. If it is acting up I have to give it gas or it will cut out. A lot of times if I wait a few minutes and try again it will be fine. Lately its been taking longer than a few minutes.