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When I start my car It idles around 1,000 rpms and when it tries to go past 2,000 rpms it jolts till the check engine light comes on I did a home dianostic test and i got a crankshaft postion sensor and a purge solenoid and I was wondering what part would make it do that or if it could be both parts are going bad

Is it advisable to take out the muffler and replace it with a straight pipe. will this hurt or help the performance and/or gas mileage

hi.i have a nissan sentra b13 with a b14 engine…the car has started cutting off on me at unpredictable times , sometimes when im driving or even when im idling in traffic…. it happens out of the blue. it starts back after easily i may have to press some gas but not always .. it will cut off today and not again for a couple weeks ..it may give a brief bad idle before it does but thats it. i have checked the pump, gas filter,air filter, throttle body, gas regulator and injecters… all are goood even my mechanic is confused please HELP!!!!!!

i also failed to mention that the last time it happened the car was idling in the yard and the bad idling started suddenly but it didnt cut off and i noticed puffs of black smoke coming out the exhaust [the car doesnt normally smoke so i found that strange] ….any other guesses?

Speedometer stuck at 0 mph. Transmission only has 2nd forward gear(reverseis fine). Dash gear indicator boxes on all gears. Check engine light indicates codes P0500(no VSS signal) and P1698(no CDD message from TCM). replaced input/output speed sensors no change. Please help!

My windows are constantly fogging up. My heater and AC both work. This has been going on for a while but seems to be getting worse. Could it be the heater core?

I have a 1996 Z71 Pick up truck 4wd. At any moment (usually traveling 50-60 mph) the speedometer will begin dropping to zero.  The dash lights will light up leaving the ABS light to stay on.  You have steering control but when you press down on the gas, the engine raves up.  Then all of a sudden, it will ‘kick’ in and you continue driving like normal.  Sometimes it will immediately correct itself while other times, you best pull over and wait for it to ‘kick in’.  Yesterday, when it did it the speedometer would not work until it ‘kicked’ in.  It may to it today but not at all tomorrow.

recently my car ran out of fuel(i thought it did)

when i put fuel in it would not start.Now im am in the process

the process of putting in a fuel pump,still will not

go.Could this be a anti theft security issue and if

so how do you reset it?

How do I change a heater door actuator in my blazer and are there are any special tools I need and about how long does it take to do so I know if I need to take a day off to do so ….

I bought a 1987 Oldsmobile 98 Regancy, 3800 V-6 engine with 116,00 miles. There are no dash lights when I turn on the headlight switch. I have voltage coming out of the interior lamp control switch, I also replaced the Interior lamp module by the control box on passenger side. I have voltage coming into the dash on brown wire when the lights are turned. Any ideas on this subject??

Yesterday the Service Engine Soon light came on in my 2004 Chevy Blazer. I took it to Goodyear this morning for a diagnostic test and asked them also to change the oil since it has been a long time (since Sept. 09) since I did that. (I know my bad). The tech changed the oil, etc. and told me that the temp sensor was causing the error and I needed a new coolant temp sensor, thermostat & gasket, radiator hoses all replaced, coolant flush, radiator cap and decarb for almost $500. I had to be to work so I made an appointment for tomorrow morning. But as I drove away the light went out. Could it be all I needed was an oil change?  Help please!