Ask Free Auto Mechanic Experts Car Questions

Hi: I own a 1996 Ford Windstar GL  3.oL engine and want(need) to replace the Output Shaft sensor (OSS), also called Vehicle Speed sensor (VSS) with “mechanical Speedometer cluster” located behind the Transaxle on the passenger side of the vehicle. I have heard some horror stories??

Has anyone done this repair?

What is the easiest way to replace sensor using back yard tools with no hoist or air tools. THanks alot.

Running Lights:
I just replaced my 1985 steering column with a 1986 steering column the plugs are exactly the same but my running lights stay on.

I am working on a 2002 Nissan Xterra 3.3L 6 cyl.   Kept cutting off.  Replaced a bad fuel  pump.  Ran for about 2 weeks. Starting cutting off again.   Have to wait 2-5 mins before you can start again.  Replaced fuel pump again, fuel filter and fuel relay.  Continues to cut off after only a few minutes, and wait again.  I am thinking computer (which there are 2 as you know). Can get expensive to customer. Any thoughts

03 Pontiac vibe / heater blows cold air when driven slowly (or at idle) even when motor is up to normal temp. Blows hot air when driven on the highway. Temp gage worms up normal. Makes me think thermostat is OK.??? Doesn’t leak antifreeze. Heater core, bad circulation???

Thank you in advance for any help you can offer. I have a 04 Honda CRV that recently overheated after I picked it up from a body shop that had done repairs from a minor accident in which they replaced the radiator. It may have been driven only a couple of minutes or possibly up to 10 minutes while overheated. The body shop had not filled the radiator apparently and they sent a guy to help me on the side of the road where I had pulled over. It took over a ½ a “jug” full of antifreeze and we had to wait for it to charge through the system before the heat in the car worked. The next morning the engine almost stalled twice, although did not completely stall (it more or less, “bucked” while moving), and the check engine light came on. The shop said the check engine light was due to an electrical switch related to the Honda vetch system. The switch was replaced and I went to pick up my vehicle just as they were leaving to test drive it. The test driver came back and told the manager while I was standing nearby that the same thing was happening, that it was mechanical and something about restricted oil flow. They shop is supposed to call me today after they check it out again. I’m a female, don’t know much about cars. Is there anything I should know or ask? The body shop told me when they hooked up the computer to my car after the overheating incident that there were no overheating codes, but this electrical switch problem showed up. Do these issues; the vetch system switch problems, check engine light, engine almost stalling sound like they could be issues caused by vehicle overheating? I’m wondering if this is the body shops fault since they didn’t fill the radiator properly and apparently didn’t test drive the vehicle before they said it was done. Although, the manager told me he ran it for a “long” time before he called us to pick it up. Not sure can believe that – wouldn’t it have overheated then if there wasn’t enough radiator fluid. Sorry for this long email. Thank you so much for any help or thoughts.

I HAVE 1996 CHEVY CAMARO APONE PUTTING IN PLUGS AND WIRES I GOT THE FIRING ORDER WRONG ON THE DIST THREE TIMES BE FOR I GOT IT RIGHT BUT THE CAR WILL START FOR A FEW SECONDS AND THEN DIE AND THEN WILL NOT START AGAIN SO IS THE DIST BAD OR COIL IS GOING OUT PLEASE HELP.

2003 Trailblazer 6cyl 4WD  116” Wheel Base

Need assistance in a rubbing noise, which rubs and creates noise dominant at specific point within the rotation of left rear axle.

This entire situation started by wife complaining of rubbing noise from left part of vehicle while driving. The noise is not a continuous rubbing noise, but it amplified within a specific area of full rotation of wheel. Took off right rear wheel and discovered the dust shield was completely rusted through and fell into pieces.  Bought dust shield, rotors, calipers and rear brakes. Once this was all replaced we decided to replace all front as well; calipers, rotors and brake pads. The rubbing noise did not go away.

We have analyzed the problem to the emergency brake pad rubs against the inside of rotor. We jacked truck up in air and removed tire, caliper and brake pads and it appears the rotor wobbles while the engine is running and in gear. I took a square and placed on concrete and the top edge of square does not ride against the rotor evenly. We exchanged the new rotor to ensure it was not part of problem and bought emergency brake pads as well. Replaced the rotor (2^nd time) and put new emergency brake pad on left rear and noise remains.

Bought a repair manual and removed calipers, brakes and rotors and adjusted the emergency pads as described in manual. Noise remains.

The first replacement of rear rotor and the continuation of fixing noise in back was about a 2 weeks difference. There was wear of the emergency brake pad in a specific area of rotor. We have cleaned all parts and greased and cleaned again and the noise remains.

The only thing we have not done is replace the rear axle shaft seal, bearing and axle shaft itself. The truck has never been in accident or hit hard on object. This also started after 9 months of the truck sitting in garage.

Any ideas????

Hyundai i10 making a noise in right hand side of engine sounds like a small motor or something anyone have any idea?