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not reaching normal operating temp fans not working unless ac is on

Change oil every 3500 miles – changed trans fluid once at 40,000 miles-got three more years of payments-what are the best service(s) to preform to maintain life of vehicle?-running 40 mile per day 1/2 highway 1/2 local

Does anyone know the cause of cars vibrating after they warm up? My 2000 Honda Civic Si vibrates after I warmed it up. I already did a complete tune-up (spark plugs, air and fuel filter, and motor mounts). Any suggestions?

ive got a 93 Honda accord ex that isw actin all kinds of funky with the transmission.the computer is good the vss is good. it was squealin like the piggy from deliverance till i took the top set of shift solenoids off.when i took them off there was a lil bit of pressure and just a few tiny bubbles that came out from the lower half of the solenoid block.apparently the solenoid unit cannot be disassembled and repaired like the description from a different service site.only a set of screens that could b removed.i put the unit back on and the squealin stopped i proceeded for a test drive only to no avail.i can shut the car off and wait for what sounds like a vacuum diaphragm to release just makes a faint pop i can then start the car and it will drive and shift until i have to stop and go again then it starts actin all funky not wanting to shift again!Im about 100% sure sumthin is just a little restricted and needs to be cleaned out rebuilt and or replaced and im definitely sure i don’t have enuf money for a new trans!the fluid is clean but im suspicious that it was replaced with or topped off with cheap fluid and i kno hondas are finicky as —–!

Thank you in advance for any help you can offer. I have a 04 Honda CRV that recently overheated after I picked it up from a body shop that had done repairs from a minor accident in which they replaced the radiator. It may have been driven only a couple of minutes or possibly up to 10 minutes while overheated. The body shop had not filled the radiator apparently and they sent a guy to help me on the side of the road where I had pulled over. It took over a ½ a “jug” full of antifreeze and we had to wait for it to charge through the system before the heat in the car worked. The next morning the engine almost stalled twice, although did not completely stall (it more or less, “bucked” while moving), and the check engine light came on. The shop said the check engine light was due to an electrical switch related to the Honda vetch system. The switch was replaced and I went to pick up my vehicle just as they were leaving to test drive it. The test driver came back and told the manager while I was standing nearby that the same thing was happening, that it was mechanical and something about restricted oil flow. They shop is supposed to call me today after they check it out again. I’m a female, don’t know much about cars. Is there anything I should know or ask? The body shop told me when they hooked up the computer to my car after the overheating incident that there were no overheating codes, but this electrical switch problem showed up. Do these issues; the vetch system switch problems, check engine light, engine almost stalling sound like they could be issues caused by vehicle overheating? I’m wondering if this is the body shops fault since they didn’t fill the radiator properly and apparently didn’t test drive the vehicle before they said it was done. Although, the manager told me he ran it for a “long” time before he called us to pick it up. Not sure can believe that – wouldn’t it have overheated then if there wasn’t enough radiator fluid. Sorry for this long email. Thank you so much for any help or thoughts.

Tail pipe is making popping while idling, just replace head gasket couple days ago to fix blown head head gasket

I have a 2004 honda accord  3.0 liter vtec 5 speed auto, with trac control and 4 wheel disc with abs, I replaced all rotors and pads and both rear calipers. Then i bleed started right rear than LR than RF to LF with car up car down than bleed starting RR to LF to LR to RF nothing have tried several times they work but has soft pedal tha fades as bleed at abs unit propor val and master got any ideas

I recenlty purchased a 92 Honda Accord , replaced  battery,  as I installed  it a plastic electrical burnt smell came from in between a/c & alternator. Any way the car started and ran well for 10 minutes till it die on me… it  went off , no electricity at all …checked the fuses and it blew off  main fuse 80 amps and an adjacent one. Before I get new  fuses and blow them again , I’d like to know any input any one out there could have any idea.   I thought I would get me a new alternator but do not want to purchsed any thing before consulting …

Thanks

Pete