I have a 1998 Ford Escort with a hard start problem. Not a battery, alternator or other problem – I believe it’s related to an engine sensor, but am not sure which one.
Symptoms:
– Difficult to start – outside air temperature affects whether the car will start harder – higher temperatures are harder starting, with temperatures in the 80’s and above causing significant problems
– Engine temperature has no bearing on the ease or difficulty of starting
– No engine light, and therefore no engine codes
– As far as I’m aware, no significant negative fuel efficiency impact (still gets about 30 MPG)
– When the engine does start, it sounds like it’s chugging for a few seconds – like it’s flooded – then clears right up.
When I get ready to start the car, I depress the accelerator pedal and let go. I try to start the car, pressing the accelerator a little – it tries to turn over, but won’t “catch”. I turn the key to the “off” position, then try starting the car again without putting my foot on the accelerator pedal at all – the car starts right up. This process is reproduced consistently each time I start the car (when outside air temperature is cool).
When outside air temperatures are hot, it’s taken me as long as 20 minutes to get the engine running, and 25-30 tries. It acts like it’s flooded, chugging for a few seconds when it finally starts.
Occasionally, I have a different problem (but which I think is related) – when I turn the key to start the engine, nothing at all happens. There is no electrical system function, other than the “Service Engine Soon” light is lit. There is no click or other sound (like a starter problem), and I can’t even get the engine to try turning over. As soon as I disconnect and reconnect the negative battery terminal, all electrical functions are restored and I can start the car. Although I can’t confirm it, it seems that this occurs after a certain number of starts (or attempts) occur. I suspect this might be related to a bad sensor sending information to the control module, and “overloading” it (and the disconnect/reconnect resets the control module).
Any ideas on which sensor might be at fault?
I think your occasional no starter function issue could be fixed by cleaning the battery terminals and terminal ends. I do not feel this is related to your other issue.
As for the hard starting… You may have a dirty MAF Sensor or a bad fuel pressure regulator. However the chugging after it starts may be fixed by having the spark plugs replaced.
FYI: The proper way to start any car 1996 and newer is: DO NOT TOUCH THE GAS PEDAL UNTIL IT STARTS. JUST TURN THE KEY.
The computer is still capable of holding codes even when the light is not on, so it would be a good idea to scan the codes. I would start with scanning the codes and replacing the plugs after you have cleaned the battery connections.
Sorry, I should have been clearer on these points:
Battery terminals are clean, and battery was replaced about 1 year ago. Only occasional short distance driving, in a mild climate since battery replacement.
Spark plugs and wires were replaced about 9 months ago; however, the car has only been driven about 3000 miles since that time. All are clean, gapped and wires are seated properly.
Engine codes were checked a couple of weeks ago, but there were no codes to report (checked 3 times to be sure). Perhaps deleted when battery terminal was disconnected?
Is there a way to test the fuel pressure regulator? I’d like to figure out whether it’s the regulator or MAF sensor without replacing both. Thanks!
I also have a 98 Ford Escort and have the same problem.I thought my starter was going bad but has been that way for 4yrs now.I just turn the key and let fuel pump kick in and turn key back and then start usualy fires right up. I just put 200,000 miles on it been the best car Ive ever had.
I’ll try turning the key enough for the fuel pump to kick in before starting. Thanks for the suggestion! Mine is the best car I’ve ever had, too – I turned 272K miles this week.
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