A/C not colder than 64°F. Replaced everything. Low side 55, high side 170 or so.
Needles bounce, scroll compressor. Fan clutch works. What else?
New parts: compressor, condensor, accumulator, orifice tube(front), expansion valve(rear), pressure switches.
Flushed lines, eliminated heaters, oem txv
If the Air Conditioning Compressor is working and it isn’t short cycling, I would look to see that the Hot/Cold Blend door is closing off the heat completely.
Also, are you checking the temp from the center dash vent with a thermometer? You should be able to pull down at least 30 degrees cooler than outside temps. On a cool 75 degree day you might even see 35-40 degrees.
If the compressor seems to be kicking in and out (short cycling) instead of constantly running, you may be low on freon, Add 1/2 lb. and test again, if it gets cooler, add another 1/2 lb. It sounds like it is just low on freon to me. If you are using the little cans, those cans are only 14 oz. and a pound is 16 oz. Make sure you are putting the correct amount in.
Also, did you draw a vacuum on the system before charging, it can do the same thing?
Air Conditioning Troubleshooting
I work in a shop. I’ve re-routed the heater hoses, so heat is out. I can see the blend door working, it definitely goes to recirc on max. I used that robinair machine. Vacuum for full 10 min, then leak test full 10 min and pass. Calls for 60oz so I put 3.75 lbs.
It may be as simple as the system is overcharged or the freon has air mixed in with it.
If it has automatic climate control it could be the temperature sensor or control Head.
If you notice the accumulator freezing up, it would be a sticking AC Relay… see this often on Fords.
I thought of the freon possibly being contaminated, but the same machine will charge other vehicles fine. It’s fleet vehicles so I can try to run it with say 3.2 to 3.5 lbs. and see. It cycles. The accumulator doesn’t frost, just normal sweaty.
I experimented with the charge amount and ended up with 3.55 lbs. I can get it down to about 55°F but that’s with rpm @ 1800, and the blower motors on medium or low. At a red light it just raises in temperature from there and then you never really get sufficient cooling. That was in 104°F weather. Do you have any other input??
55 seems pretty cold on a 104 degree day. What temp do you get out of the other vehicles in the fleet?
Since it warms when you stop and cools when your moving I would think it has to do with the amount of air crossing over the condenser. I would try using a fan in the shop aimed at the condenser for testing but i would think that it is possible that the clutch fan isn’t doing its job as it should. Since you have a fleet of them, you could swap it off a different vehicle and see if the issue follows the fan. before buying a new one.
I had to use a fan to get the 55. That’s cheating. The air in the shop will always be cooler than exhaust and street heat at a red light. I think that the stock fan clutch is not enough for the desert heat. The evap being in the motor bay does not help. The others blow about 50 but not revving to 1800 or on low setting or with a fan in front of the grill.
Finally installed an oem condenser from ford. In the box was a new sticker saying that they’ve remodeled the condenser and there’s a new charge amount. From 3.75 lbs to 2.85 lbs. Thing got down to 36°F in the shop with ideal settings and atmosphere.
That’s great that you have it working now as it should. At least we know the troubleshooting chart still holds true and it was as simple as being overcharged. (tough to tell without that decal for sure) Thank you for taking the time to post back as this may be able to help someone else in the future with there air conditioning troubleshooting.
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