I purchased this vehicle in February of 2015, since then I have replaced the power steering pressure hose, the alternator (due to the leaking power steering hose flooding & shorting it out), put new strut assemblies on the front, replaced the spark plugs, cleaned the MAF, replaced the fuel pump, and 2 ignition coils. It is still idling ROUGH, stalls when it starts, and has an error code of P0306 (saying my cylinder 6 is misfiring). However it has a NEW ignition coil & spark plug. Took it to the mechanic and they say that cylinder 6 is getting NO fire. We have checked the CAM sensor, the fuel injectors & combustion to the injectors. Checked wire to the ignition coil–all are firing as they should. Everything checks out, just ZERO fire to cylinder 6. Can someone help me figure out what it is?? The only other thing we can come up with is Engine Control Module–which I attempted to reset but now it will not stay running. PLEASE help!! Thank you.
Keywords:Maxima
When a misfire occurs, engine speed will fluctuate. If the engine speed fluctuates enough to cause the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor signal to vary, the Engine Control Module (ECM) can determine that a misfire is occurring. So I am sure the ECM is doing its job and does not need replaced. Start by looking for an intake leak.
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P0306 Nissan – Number 6 Cylinder Misfire Detected
The P0306 code means that the cylinder 6 is misfiring or is randomly misfiring. Start by checking for intake leaks an if no leaks are found the next step is to replace the spark plugs on cylinder 6. If the problem persist more tests needs to be done to diagnose problem, see “Possible Causes”
Possible causes
– Faulty spark plug 6
– Clogged or faulty fuel injector 6
– Faulty ignition coil 6
– Fuel injector 6 harness is open or shorted
– Fuel injector 6 circuit poor electrical connection
– Ignition coil 6 harness is open or shorted
– Ignition coil 6 circuit poor electrical connection
– Insufficient cylinder 6 compression
– Incorrect fuel pressure
– Intake air leak
there are only a couple things on that list that have not already been checked: clogged fuel injector (it is combusting on injector 6 but not sure if it is clogged), fuel pressure, and intake air leak.
but why would an intake air leak only cause #6 to misfire?
if the leak was at or around cylinder #6 it would allow for that cylinder to get WAY TOO MUCH air and not fire.
well today on the way home from work (less than 2 miles away) it chugged, died, restarted, then chugged & died completely. Will NOT start, does not even get juice with a jump. no beeping–NOTHING. Plus will not release my key from the ignition & without pushing the shift lock, it will not come out of neutral or whatever gear it is in. Could it be the ECM??
can you tell me if the timing belt on a 2002 nissan maxima is interference or non-interference?
Sounds more like a dead battery or failed alternator. If the battery is internally shorted it would be difficult for a jump to help.
2002 Maxima does not use a timing belt, thus breakage should be rare. Because it uses a timing chain, a failing chain would most likely show rough engine performance due to wear in the links, resulting in chain slop/stretch, and thus changed the engine timing from optimal setting. I don’t know the valve configuration of Maxima engine, whether it is interference or non-interference. If it is the latter, there should not be engine damage.
Interference engines usually sustain damage if synchronization is lost. Damage can occur to valves, pistons, or heads, and in some cases, completely ruin the engine. Most import (with higher compression engines) and most car and light truck diesel engines are interference.
Had the battery checked & its at 100%. They said if it was the alternator was bad it would have been slowly losing charge, but that after 24+ hours it is still 100% so both should be good.
They suggested it possibly being the ignition switch?
A good test would be to check for battery voltage at the “S” terminal on the starter while the ignition key is held in the “START” position. If you see battery voltage, replace the starter. If you do not see battery voltage, trace back. Could be gear selector switch, relay, ignition switch or wiring.
This is all after the battery has been LOAD TESTED and confirmed GOOD. The same load tester can check the alternator as well. Most all auto repair shops have one of these and most all auto parts stores as well.
we have ruled out the alternator, starter, & battery. They were tested while on the vehicle–the battery tested while on & off the vehicle. We are afraid to change the ignition switch, because it was fine on Sunday. We are thinking that if we put another one on it that whatever caused this one to go bad (IF that is part of the problem) that it will just go bad again.
Do you think it could be the engine relay?
It started beeping & ticking today & we finally got the key out of the ignition….
It is possible that the Engine Control Module is Bad.
I am still going to stick with my thinking the Battery is the heart of the problem. It may be bad battery connection or battery itself but that is where I am at. I would try a New battery before i tried a New ECM – Engine Control Module.
Battery has been checked & been told that it is in good working condition. Battery cables were checked & WERE good (not sure if they have been messed up with whatever is going on now). Someone suggested that maybe the main ground cable is not operating properly. I am just at a loss as to what else to try. I NEED my car running again.
PS–thank you for all of your help so far!!
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