I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Special Edition 4.0L Straight 6 4WD loaded. I have a parasitic draw and I need help to find it. I’d like help with the non intrusive method which is to check voltage drop across each fuse without having to worry about vehicle waking up.
I was told a few things and I replaced the alternator, battery and computer but issue still remains. I have to disconnect the negative battery terminal every night so it won’t drain the battery but this resets everything when I reconnect it. Hard to pass NYS inspection when none of your monitors are ready. 200 miles later only the EVAP monitor wasn’t ready and I passed.
There is nothing ON that I can see in the interior or exterior. So basically I just need to know how to set up my multimeter. Where and how to test fuses to narrow down which circuit and fuse or relay is causing the draw. Also is there a way to check relays in the junction box under the hood without pulling them out and causing the computer to throw a code? What about the maxi fuses? They are a bit bigger with a clear cover on them can you test these as well?
It’s beginning to be a hassle to disconnect the cable every time. I thought about installing a kill switch but that doesn’t really solve my problem so short of buying a smart battery charger or maintainer to keep the battery charged overnight I don’t know what else to do. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
A few things I have found over the years that cause this.
- Glove box light staying on, examine the vehicle at night as it is easier to see if a light is still on somewhere
- Chewing gum wrapper lodged in cigar lighter/12V supply port
- Penny or dime also found inside cigar lighter/12V supply port
- Accessory left plugged in cigar lighter/12V supply port
Testing the MAXI Fuses will require removal. It is best to remove any fuse or relays to test it when considering there may be a short somewhere in the system. This will isolate the component being tested and keep from causing false test results. Set the Multimeter to continuity for checking the fuses.
Hello,
There isn’t a way to check fuses for voltage drop without removing them? There are tons of videos on YouTube showing this technique but it’s very confusing….I still don’t fully understand how to set up my multimeter….Like where in the meter to plug my leads into or where the dial should be as far as DCV or DCA and which number setting to have it on….Also would a test light be an effective way to check this being a late model vehicle? Please help….Thanks
Checking a fuse and checking a fuse for voltage drop are two different things.
As stated in the link I gave you – How to Use a Multimeter:
VOLTAGE DROP
When current flows through a load, the voltage beyond the load drops. This voltage drop is due to the resistance created by the load and also by small resistance’s created by corrosion at the connectors and damaged insulation on the wires. The maximum allowable voltage drop under load is critical, especially if there is more than one load in the circuit, since all voltage drops are cumulative.
Set the voltmeter selector switch to the 20 volt position.
Connect the multi meter negative lead to a good ground.
Operate the circuit and check the voltage prior to the first component (load).
There should be little or no voltage drop in the circuit prior to the first component. If a voltage drop exists, the wire or connectors in the circuit are suspect.
While operating the first component in the circuit, probe the ground side of the component with the positive meter lead and observe the voltage readings. A small voltage drop should be noticed. This voltage drop is caused by the resistance of the component.
Repeat the test for each component (load) down the circuit.
If a large voltage drop is noticed, the preceding component, wire or connector is suspect.
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