Cranks slow won’t start. Battery and starter both tested good. Cleaned all connections, from battery/starter/grounds. Car spins over fine with ratchet on crankshaft pulley ,but when I try to start it ,seems like it struggles and sucks the life out of the battery. Checked the timing ,it is right. Checked fuses and relays all good and/ or replaced. Car gets fuel and spark. I’m not a mechanic I’ve just exhausted all my other options, any help would be very much appreciated. It is a 93 Chrysler Lebaron / convertible,sedan. 3.0v6. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks
Steven
Hello Steven, Let me start off with my initial thought. Replace the Battery. The number one reason for a no start condition is the battery. Yes, I did hear you say the battery tested good. So allow me this opportunity to tell you I have seen and tested many batteries that were in fact bad. An irrefutable test would be to start with a NEW, fully charged battery. It shouldn’t struggle to spin the engine and certainly shouldn’t drain the life out of the battery unless the battery is in fact weak/bad.
Based on what you have stated that the timing is right and it is getting spark and fuel. The only thing left would be compression and that generally doesn’t happen in two seconds on all four cylinders at the same time. Now when you say it is getting fuel I am assuming you mean the fuel injector is spraying fuel and not just that it has fuel pressure. Have you tried spraying starting fluid in it while cranking the engine?
Thanks for the reply, I will try a new battery. I have not tried spraying starting fluid in to the intake,but I will try that also. I plan on getting a compression tester, and testing compression. As for fuel , I know it gets fuel all the way to the fuel rail. I have not checked the injectors, but I plan on it.I will let you know the results thanks. Steven
I’m back again I tried spraying starting fluid while cranking (no change) it doesn’t hit just cranks slowly.i got a brand new battery and made sure it was fully charged , it seemed like it cranked a tiny bit better but still cranked slow until battery wouldn’t crank it anymore. I bought a compression tester and the results where( cylinder 13456 between 60 and 70 psi)( number 2 cylinder was at 90 psi). I know i could take it to a mechanic but i would really like to fix it myself. Thanks for the help, Steven.
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The compression is a bit low but not enough to keep it from running. They are all withing 20-30 psi, that is good. You stated the timing is right. Did you inspect it or just recently change the belt?
Any check engine light codes? Check engine codes without a scan tool
What did the spark plugs look like: Spark plug Burn Chart
If the spark plugs are worn(rounded edges) install new ones.
Engine needs four things to run:
1) Spark
2) Fuel – Fuel Injector Pulse Tester
3) Compression
4) Timing – the first 3 at the right time
the 1993 models utilizes a Powertrain Control Module (PCM) all referred to as engine controller. These systems use a digital pre-programmed computer, to regulate ignition timing, air/fuel ratio, emission control devices, cooling fan, charging system, idle speed and speed control.
Various sensors provide the input necessary for the engine controller to correctly regulate fuel flow at the fuel injectors. These include manifold absolute pressure, throttle position, oxygen feedback, coolant temperature, charge temperature and vehicle speed sensors. In addition to the sensors, various switches also provide important information. These include transmission neutral safety, brake, speed control and A/C clutch switches. These signals cause the engine controller to change either the fuel flow at the injector, ignition timing or both.
The engine controller tests many of its own input and output circuits. If a problem is detected in a major system, the information is stored in the memory. This information can be displayed by a instrument panel malfunction indicator (check engine) lamp, or by connecting a diagnostic read-out tool and reading a numbered display which corresponds to a specific problem.
I just inspected the belt by slowly turning the engine over by hand and checking all parts of it through the inspection plate.I put the number 1 cylinder at top dead center on compression stroke and the crankshaft pulley and camshaft gear timing marks lined up and the rotor was pointing at number 1 on the distributor. check engine light comes on with key on but goes off as it should, it does not stay on. i tried the key on/off/on/off/on and watched the check engine light blink, it only flashes two codes. code 12 (according to my repair manual is “number of key-ons since last fault or since faults were erased”)and code 55 ( again according to my repair manual “completion of fault code display”). I have pulled each plug, cleaned and tested spark from each one . They look good and all had good spark. i do not own an obd tool but im thinking of getting one. thanks for the help.
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